Friday, 31 May 2013

India Post: An interview with the author of The Sergeant's Son ...

http://www.indiapost.com/indian-americans-will-find-my-story-exotic/


‘Indian Americans will find my story exotic’

Ashim Choudhury has attracted some notice with his recently published novel ‘The Sergeant’s Son’ published by Rupa. Here he takes
Ashim
some time off to answer questions e-mailed to him by India Post wherein he talks candidly about the making of the novel, his career with UN, his hobby of painting and future plans:
India Post: Tell us about your background and your journey into writing?
Ashim Choudhury: I’m an out-of-work journalist, doing consultancies, writing, editing. In my spare time I also paint particularly when I’m traveling to the hills. I’ve worked as a public Information officer with the UN for several years, was also there at the UN Missions in Liberia and Sudan. If all goes well I might go back to Africa with one of the UN Missions. I hope to write a book on my African experience some day.
IP: What prompted you to write a story about ‘The Sergeant’s Son’
AC: My father was in the air force. The story of my childhood was something deeply embedded in my psyche. Memories of childhood were something I cherished and held close to my heart. As a child I did dream of being a journalist. The idea of writing a book came in 1977. I was also in the Air Force then, undergoing my training. I would spend a lot of time in the library reading as I could hardly relate with the fellow recruits around me. After I finished reading a book by Dom Moraes; it was an autobiography. I told myself,” The story of my own life would be much interesting.” That’s when the idea of writing this book first germinated. But it was not until twenty years later, three years after I had quit Air force and a year after I had quit a regular job in journalism that I began to write. I was with the UNDP in India then.
IP: So the story is autobiographical?
AC: ‘Yes’ and ‘No’. I’ll say it’s largely inspired by my own life. But it’s not an authentic autobiography.
IP: Does the novel have any parallel to your own childhood?
AC: As I have already said it’s largely drawn from my own childhood. Kalu, the main protagonist, is me to a large extent. So, yes, there is a parallel to my childhood.
IP: How do you think your novel will appeal to Indian Americans?
AC: Why just Indian-Americans? I think it should universally appeal to a lot of people from the English speaking world. They will find it exotic in a way. The book is a portrayal of a bygone era in India. Most Indian readers in their fifties and sixties will be able to connect with their own lives. The book has its own resonance even today. I remember a lady, the wife of a Sergeant telling me. ‘My son read it and said, ‘Ma this book talks of the same things that you also talk about.’ The boy was drawing parallels between his own mother and Basanti in the novel. I think that was a great compliment. For an airman’s son today to see clear parallels with his own life – I think that an achievement.
IP: How would you describe your book?
AC: It’s not a typical novel with a plot. You can call it a social-reality family saga that depicts the angst of a little boy who is talented and wants to become an artist. The story is told from the boy’s point of view. It is a portrayal of lower-middle class life in the India of the sixties and seventies. The reality has not changed for millions of poor children in India who may be talented but cannot follow their dreams for want of money. And then we have this culture deeply ingrained in us, ‘Baap mochi to beta bhi mochi.’ The dynasty syndrome in our polity is also a reflection of this.
IP: Would you sympathies with the Blacks and minorities in America?
Ashim-IAC: Well ‘The Sergeant’s Son’, in a way, is about class struggle. Yes it also touches upon the issue of color discrimination. Kalu is acutely conscious of his dark complexion. It gives him an inferiority complex. The novel sympathizes with the underdog, deals with little unfulfilled dreams and ambitions. Talking of Blacks and minorities in America I am reminded of that book, ‘To kill a Mockingbird’ The Sergeant’s Son has certain parallels to that famous book.
I guess much has changed now. A few years could you have ever thought of a Black American President? But yes there’s a lot of discrimination in the world. Discrimination works at several layers. Visit Delhi’s bungalow zone then go to one of the low-end areas like Mongolpuri or Shahadra and you’ll know what I’m talking about. In the bungalow zone the municipal corporation works like clockwork, in other areas it doesn’t. The Maoist upsurge you are seeing in swathes of India is partly a result of that discrimination. If I was a Muslim living in America, I guess I could have answered your question better.
IP: How was the experience of getting your first book published?
AC: Not a very pleasant one, I would say. Publishers often tend to treat you with disdain. Getting someone to review your manuscript seriously is not an easy task unless you are famous. My manuscript was first given to one publishing house who I kept chasing and chasing and was finally told, ‘Sorry, we’ve misplaced it!’ This kind of a thing happens all the time, particularly when you are a beginner.
IP: Any interesting anecdote that you would like to share?
AC: There was this editor – looking after the publishing arm of a news organization where I worked. I thought this was my opportunity. When I took the manuscript to her she said, ‘What’s this about?’ I told her it was about my own life. ‘Why would anyone be interested to read about your life?’ she asked. I had no plausible answer. She immediately handed me back the manuscript!
IP: And now…Have you tasted success…? How has the response been so far?
AC: This is another grey area. There are no clear systems in place to find out how your book is selling. The publishers don’t tell you. Honestly, I don’t know how the book is selling. Maybe I’ll know after I get my first batch of royalty! But the reviews have been very encouraging. And, more importantly, feedback from ordinary people.
IP: Is there a sequel to the book. For instance, how the life of the protagonist shaped up?
A lot of people have asked me this question. Yes, a sequel is coming, on what happens to Kalu after he joins the Air Force. It’s hilarious! I’m also working on a book of short stories.

Monday, 20 May 2013

A trek I had undertaken in Kinnaur long ago

http://www.indiapost.com/to-chitkul-via-charang-la-in-himachal/



To Chitkul via Charang La in Himachal

Bridge on a gorge-2The author and his friends travel from Delhi to Himachal’s famous Kinnaur district. A blow-by-blow account of the trek in the mountains and valleys of Kinnuar.
Despite it being Friday the thirteenth we are in high spirits as we assemble at the ISBT from where the bus for Shimla leaves. Rajat is waiting for me when I reach the bus adda. Soon Sunder arrives. But there’s no sign of Anshuman our young team leader. Our worry mainly concerns the fact that Anshuman has the rucksack that contains all the provisions for the trip. Minutes before the Himachal Roadways conductor blows the final whistle Anshuman arrives with bags on his back twice as large as him! Our foursome journey to Shimla is full of fun and banter.
Early next morning our bus journey for Kinnaur begins from Shimla’s Lakkad Bazar. It’s evening by the time the bus winds it way to Rekong Peo, a small hill town nestled below the imposing Kinnar Kailash peaks. On the way we cross Theog, Narkanda, Rampur and several small villages overhanging the swollen Sutlej, which keeps us company for most of our road journey in Kinnaur. In the mountains it’s best to travel by bus if you want to get a good view of the gorges and deep valleys. But window seats are not recommended for the weak at heart. At Rekong Peo we settle for the Snow View Hotel overlooking the market and a fascinating view of the Kinnar Kailash.
By six next morning we’re ready for last drive to Thangi a two-and-a-half hour journey 41kms away, from where our trek begins. After aloo-parantha and tea our porters and the Maruti Gypsy arrive. The road to Thangi, hugging rocky mountains above the frothy-foamy Sutlej coursing through the gorge, is simply breathtaking. There are a couple of major falls on the way. After leaving the gorges we come upon lush green mountains dotted with homes and villages. A bend in the mountains, and the Sutlej is behind us. Another hour of uphill driving we come upon a few huts along the broken road. One of them is Reena Hotel. This is Thangi.
Invisible from the road head, Thangi village is a steep ten minute climb above the road. It must be one of Himachal’s most beautiful villages, better than any picture postcard! Here, trekkers to Charang La have to get clearance from the ITBP HQs. Better still, get advance clearance from Delhi or check with the ITBP check post near the Thangi road-head. Also, ask ITBP to convey your imminent arrival to Shruting, a ten-hour uphill trek, so that the jawans there, with limited rations, are not surprised. In any case, they will extend all possible hospitality.
After Thangi the road is motorable for another three kilometers, after which there’s nothing in sight, except mountains above and a gushing river below. The trek starts as a gentle walk along the road. But soon we come to a section of dirt track where there’s hardly any space to place your feet…and down below it a steep fall over sharp rocks recently blasted off the mountain to build the road to Charang. My feet get posted at this dangerous stretch and I decide to return. Reading the fright on my face, Anshuman, who has crossed the stretch, retraces his steps, offloads my back pack takes it all with him and says, “Just hold my hand.” Thankfully someone hands me a stick and I make it across!
Behind me the scene is being repeated with Sundar who, like me, also has a mild vertigo problem. After ten minutes of nail biting suspense, we resume our journey, soon coming on a steep fall. On a trek it’s best to forget your fears and take to the mountains like a goat, or like Anshuman! Descents can be more dangerous than ascents and trekkers are advised to get a walking stick. After the frightening descent, made worse by a herd of goats hurtling down, we come to a valley of rocks and boulders along the riverbed. A few more precipitous climbs and falls later, we rest in a valley of boulders criss-crossed by several meandering streams. Taking in the beauty of the surrounding mountains we quench our thirst from ice-cold brooks and resume our journey. There are wild roses and several exotic plants and flowers along the route. Some patches look like gardens of heaven. ‘God’s own country’, whoever gave that line to Kerala hadn’t seen Kinnaur.
Lumbar
After over three hours of trekking, which included crossing the river on a trembling bridge of pine logs, we finally come upon a four-house village! This is Lumbar, at 9611 feet. A wooden hut, smelling of pinewood, is our ‘hotel’ and resting place. The quiet ‘house’ comes to life on our arrival. Hot cups of tea are served after which, while the dal-chawal gets ready, we soak our feet in the cold river flowing behind the log hut. A 15-minute rest after lunch, we begin our upward journey again.
Shruting is another 11 kilometers trek through undulating and sometimes extremely difficult terrain. You also have to brave the risk of falling rocks from loose mountainsides. The mountains here are in various stages of disintegration, some like black mounds of ash. Occasionally wild goats grazing above the mountains could inadvertently hurtle rocks and stones at you. If it’s not goats, then it’s the blasting. Our porter tells us how five Nepali laborers had lost their lives when the blasted mountainside they were working on suddenly collapsed. Their bodies were never found. There are no memorials to such men who die to make roads for us.
Shruting
The road to Shruting never seems to end. Finally, as we rest over a brook across another boulder strewn valley, the porter says, “Ab aa gaye saab, bas nadi par karna hai.” Indeed a bridge across the river was soon visible. But soon it disappeared as we took another bend in the mountains. It appeared and disappeared several times before we finally crossed the iron bridge. Shruting is a beautiful valley, glistening streams of water cutting across it. But it’s eerie. Not a soul lives here, except for six ITBP jawans. Thirty minutes of trudging through a gentle valley of shrubs and flowers we are finally able to spot the two ITBP barracks in the fading sunlight. Crossing a gurgling brook over a log bridge we are relieved to find a resting place for the night. The jawans organize food for us including the local drink and tinned tuna fish. The night is fun despite the frosty winds blowing outside. Next morning, all four nursing a hangover, we set off for Charang.
Day 2
It’s a three-and-half-hour climb from Shruting to Charang a small village tucked away in the mountains. Apparently Charang was discovered only in 1960s around the Indo-China aggression. Mid-way to Charang one gets a panoramic view of Kaza village in the hazy distance. It takes us nearly an hour before we reach Charang. Just before the gateway to Charang is a PWD guesthouse ideal for a nights stay. We unload our rucksack at the gateway and trek down to Charang crossing a rivulet on a rickety bridge. It’s a small village of wood and mud houses spread over a large area and dotted with Buddhist gomphas. Surprisingly every home here has solar panels, their only source of electricity.
From Charang we set off for Lalanti at 13000 feet. An old man advises us to halt at the dwar before Lalanti. “You’ll get plenty of wood and dung cakes to keep you warm through the night,” he assures us. The dwar is a niche in the mountains that shelters from wind and rain. The shepherds, cattle and all, often make overnight stopovers at these dwars. The trek to Lalanti La (pass) is a steep 45 degree climb. It takes us two-and-half hours of breathless climbing before we make it to Lalanti La. Anshu has a 45 minute snooze before the rest of us catch up with him. By now the terrain has become tough and treacherous.
Lalanti La gives a bird’s eye view of Charang on one side and the Kinnar Kailash peak on the other. The view takes our breath away – or whatever little is left of it! Tired, we want to pitch our tents but it is too windy, and there’s no flat patch. And Lalanti is still far away downhill. We have to negotiate a glacier that takes us half an hour. Anshu cuts steps on the hard ice. One missed step and we can slide to our deaths below. I picture my family and wonder if I’ll meet them again. Sunder has to be virtually carted across the snow and scree. Our ordeal ends as we come upon a relatively flat patch. The porters decide to cook a meal and Rajat and Anshu go scouting for a place to pitch tents. By the time they have pitched the tents our khichhdi dinner is ready…or is it lunch? We have lost track of time. The harsh terrain is littered with rocks and stones. Lachhi lights a fire with cowdung cakes retrieved from the dwar. We rest for the night. The sky is studded with stars. The moon looks forlorn. It’s a wakeful night as we are six packed into a tent for five. An unwashed, stinking Lachhi keeps rolling on to me.
Day 3
Early next morning, after tea and nature’s call, we set off for Lalanti. The air is thin now and we’re panting after ever few steps. Anshu and Rajat are way ahead of us, but they take the wrong way up a treacherous climb. An hour later they catch up with us. We still don’t appear to be anywhere near a camping site. After a few more tiring bends we are able to sight the pilgrim shelter at Lalanti. It’s nearly 1.30 in the afternoon by the time we reach it, a tin shed stinking of cow and goat shit. We pitch our tents close by. Our porters cook a meal of, you’ve guessed it, khichhidi!
Lalanti is a (relatively) green meadow where shepherds from Thangi and Charang bring their cattle to graze during monsoons. It then becomes a huge production ground of milk, ghee and cottage cheese. And festivities follow.Another view from Kalpa
With the long afternoon before us we explore the bushes and rocks for flora and fauna. And guess what Anshu discovers in the distant snow, a string of humans! We take turns at the binoculars. What a relief, the first sighting of fellow humans in two days! An hour later we go up to meet the 14-member Lonely Planet (LP) team coming from Chitkul. They bring bad tidings, that the Charang La (pass) is covered with snow. The good news is that the LP team has cut steps on the snow that will make our passage easier.
Since the last lap to Chitkul will take us at least nine hours, according to the LP team, we sleep early so that we can set off early next morning. By evening the weather packs up, becomes cloudy and damp, it starts drizzling copiously. The night passes off uneventfully.
Day 4
We set off early in the wet soggy morning. The terrain is full of rocks and boulders but, thankfully, it’s not steep. After crossing the river and a final bend we come upon the dazzling Kinnar Kailash peaks! But soon the clouds mar our view. The drizzle turns into snowing! We move on, every step forward a Himalayan effort. We rest every few minutes. The journey seems endless as we go up and down the soggy, snowy features. Not a blade of grass grows here. Our shoes get caught is small crevices. And we’re not even wearing snow boots! Weary of the journey even Anshuman, our young team leader, falls sick and throws up. Sundar and I are lagging behind. It’s about 4.30 pm when we reach the base of Charang La. Rajat, the only one to hold on, eggs us on to move fast and cross the pass before it gets dark. The most difficult part of the trek is facing us. A half-kilometer perpendicular (65 degree) stretch of snow!
I have half a mind to run back to the LP team. It was only the fear of returning alone that forces me to take the climb. We crawl on all fours. It takes us over an hour to make it across to Charang La, 17,320 feet. We’re tired, but happy to be alive. Yet there’s no respite. The cloud cover is so thick we cannot see ahead. And it’s almost evening. Rajat and Chootu take the lead, sliding down the snow on their butts. The rest of us follow suit, except Sundar who got stuck at the top. Finally the two porters are dispatched up to bring him down. It’s already dark and we have no choice but to pitch our tents in the ice itself, unsure if the area is stable. This is an extra night we hadn’t foreseen! Even our rations are over. The air is so thin we can barely breathe inside the tent. We take turns unzipping the tent for fresh cold air. All of us kept awake with prayers on our lips that we should not slide down the glacier.
Day 5
With the morning light our fears evaporate. The landscape is all white, it having snowed all night. Our tents and rucksack are all wet and soggy. The drinking water and cooking gas are exhausted. So with ‘breakfast’ of snow and Glucon C we set off downhill on our last lap to Chitkul. After what seems an endless downhill trek we are delighted to meet a shepherd from Chitkul. It’s nearly evening. “How far is Chitkul, we ask impatiently. “Babuji, just ten minutes,” the shepherd’s answer delights us. But even after an hour there’s no sign of Chitkul. The terrain is still very steep. But the air is no longer thin and we take in lungs full of air. About half an hour later we come upon a gushing stream straddled by hundreds of wooden houses. This is Chitkul. Even with the fading light and our tired senses we can see she’s beautiful perched on the upper reaches of a valley of rolling greens. The mountain stream cutting across Chitkul and the meadow finally falls into the river Baspa. Beyond this last human habitation is the dirt road that leads to Tibet some 40 kms away. Only the ITBP and their mules are allowed to venture beyond.
Ashim Choudhury
(Ashim Choudhury is author of ‘The Sergeant’s Son’. He can be reached at ashimch@yahoo.com visit his blog ashimch13.blogspot.in)

Wednesday, 1 May 2013

Why Manali is not worth travelling to anymore ...

http://why.travel/asia/rape-of-the-hills/


Rape of the Hills

This summer, don’t go to Manali!

Not the virginal land anymore
When a young friend from IIT Mandi asked casually if I could be a guest speaker at EXODIA 13, their annual fest, I was hesitant. “We could also add in a book-reading and author-signing of your book The Sergeant’s Son,” he suggested. That clinched the deal. There was another reason for agreeing; my weakness for the hills. “Okay, I’ll drive down,’ I told my bewildered host. The decision to drive was something I would deeply regret later. In fact, by the time I reached Mandi every bone in my body had been rattled, every muscle stressed, every nerve frayed.
The horror called NH-21 began immediately on climbing the hills after Ropar. There were craters and manholes on the road, and the lumbering trucks were dangerously lurching from side to side. Moving ahead, the roads were even worse as trucks and lorries dodged the craters raising smokescreens of dust as they raced with each other. I rolled up the windows to keep out the blinding dust raised by the trucks.
This was a national highway? Was this the road to Manali, one of India’s most popular hill destinations? It was as if the road had been carpet bombed for miles and miles together. When the going got a little better, I stopped alongside a tea shop and shouted, “How long is this road like this?” The fellow said philosophically, “The worst is over…it will get better soon.” But soon the ‘bombed out’ stretches began again. By the time I was at Swarghat, it was pure hell. Ironically, Swarghat means ‘valley of heaven’. By now, my mind was made up, I would park my car in some village along the way and do the rest of the journey on a bus.
Soon a two-shop village appears and I halt at a teashop. The village is called PanchPiri, Nikku Ram Sharma tells me as he stirs pakoris in the oil. He keeps dusting his shop all the time. But it’s useless. Everything, even his face, has a coating of dust. I quiz him on the problem as each passing vehicle keeps adding on dust. “Hum to barbad ho gaye! (We’re devastated)” he says throwing up his hands in helplessness. And why have things come to such a sad pass?  He says it is because of these cement factories.  “Adani, ACC, Jaypee…they have all set up plants here…You see these heavy trucks? They are all headed to these factories,” he says.
Trucks ply all day and there is no respite at night when their numbers actually increase making the craters more accident-prone. Life for people like Nikku Ram has become hellish as shops and homes alongside the NH-21 are blanketed by dust. There’s another economic boom the cement factories and trucks have spawned along the road to Manali. It is the puncture repair shops. The entire road, particularly the bad stretches, is punctuated with these shops. As further testimony, one could see trucks and other vehicles stranded in the middle of the road with flat tires and broken axles. In some places the trucks had keeled over.

Seemingly benign – the ACC plant
While the ACCs, the Adanis and JPs may want us to believe they have brought development to the hills, the locals look on helplessly as their environment gets choked with each passing day. “What can we do?” is a sigh of despair not Nikku Ram’s alone. The havoc that the cement factories and trucks have played with the roads should be seen in the stark contrast to the view I get from the backyard of Nikku Ram’s shop. From behind his shop one witnesses the breathtaking view of snow-clad mountains in the horizon. Below, in the wooded valleys are sheets of clouds stuck in the hills. This heavenly sight, perhaps, gives Swarghat its name. But on the road in front, it is a different reality.
Why in the name of development have we allowed our hills to be raped?

Ravished beauty – the hill in Kandour
On my return from Mandi, between Sundar Nagar and Bilaspur, I stop at a tea shop in Sallaper village. From here, through the lush greenery, you can see the giant ACC cement plant looking gentle and harmless. I ask Devendar Sharma, 45, a resident of Sundar Nagar, if children or adults in the area have respiratory and lung problems. He is unaware. “But till about a five km range around the factory there is a layer of fine cement dust on the leaves of plants and trees. Surely it must be affecting our lungs as well,” he says. This assertion, and the road condition I have seen,forces me to take a different return route to Chandigarh.
On this road, via Una, I come across entire stretches of hills whose bowels and innards have been ripped open revealing just barren stone and rocks. “This is the raw material for the cement factories,” says Dinesh Chauhan a local from the area. “The factories have taken these hills on lease,” he informs pointing to a ravaged hill at Dehlag in Kandour of Bilaspur district. There are many such outraged hills that are changing the face of Himachal into an ugly one. The development paradigm in the fragile ecology of the hills has to be different.The state chief minister and the prime minister need to understand clearly. India Inc. also needs to understand this: we cannot allow the rape of our hills in the name of development.
If the rape of one woman had galvanized the nation, when are we going to going to awaken to the rape and pillage of our hills? Soon might be too late!
Ashim Choudhury
Ashim Choudhury is a writer, painter, journalist, cartoonist, cook and gardener (in that order) and 'Hitler' as his children fondly call him. He worked for the UN for a few years, after which he decided to pursue his passions, that is, writing and sketching. He is the author of The Sergeant’s Son (pub. Rupa Publications). Read what else he has to say atashimch13.blogspot.in

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